First day of walking. 28km to Roncesvalles
I get up early. It is 6 hours. I try to put my stuff in my backpack quietly. It is not easy, he black and nothing should be forgotten. The Australian comes to greet me and wish me good luck. This is the last time I spoke to him. There will be many people like that we do not see it once and never see again later.
The innkeeper, for security reasons, forbids me to take the path of the mountain. There's too much snow, I could lose myself. So I have to go through the route.
A volunteer from the hostel, a guy of 60 years, wants to do with me the first mile. It ensures that I take out the right path, one that goes by road. He walks all Speed in speaking of the signaling pathways of the Camino.
-You must follow the yellow arrows. They are omnipresent on the road. They can be anywhere: on a tree on a stone, painted on the road. This is your main guide. You must always keep an eye on it.
I have a hard time to follow! After a few kilometers, he leaves me alone and said goodbye! I'm hot, I stop and I want to remove a jacket!
There is something special about these trails. I feel good right now. I am available to all that surrounds me and I feel close to nature.
I notice a bird singing in a tree, it's a tit. It reminds me of my Aunt May, a nun who loved painting and bird watching. When we visited the holidays, she had given Felix, my little boy, a tit plastic starts to sing when shaken. We do not know, but this visit was the last we've made it. She died shortly after.
I understand watching the tit why she was so fond of singing birds.
Dogs in France are voracious. They do pas les étrangers. Tous les chiens que je rencontre sur mon chemin veulent me bouffer. Ils me mettent en garde de ne pas rester trop longtemps sur leur territoire. Je marche plus vite, mais je ne cours pas. J’essaie de ne pas leur tourner le dos, la plupart du temps, ça suffit pour eux. Tu quittes mon territoire, il n’y a pas de problème.
Mais il y a toujours des exceptions, par exemple, ces deux petits chiens, qui n’ont pas suscité assez de méfiance de ma part. Lorsqu’ils m’ont vu, ils ont chargé à fond de train vers moi, puis l’un d’eux s’est approché de ma cheville et a déposé ses crocs contre mon talon. Je sentais ses dents exercer une pression. I was sure he was going to bite me! And I do not know why he opened his mouth and he ran off with another dog to her home. If it had bitten me, it was all over my journey.
I attack mounted by a trail off the road. At first, there is little snow, it's easy to walk this fine snow. I say that Europeans make a fuss, snow is nothing there! However, after several hours of climbing, I discover that the snow depth is proportional to the altitude where you are. In other words, the higher you climb, the more snow ...
I ride until I find myself walking in at least two feet of snow, I can not make more than seven steps without stopping, my heart pumps up and I must give him time recover. I hold this pace for two hours: seven steps I walk, I stop to catch my breath then I'm leaving for another seven steps. I have no choice, it is too late to retrace my steps. I rely on my intuition tells me that the summit is not far. In the end, I hear cars past, I know that the road is nearby. Then I see the pilgrims who walk the path. Eureka, I'm saved!
.
I got there with patience. Those who know me know I'm not patient, then I learned what could be done with it!
After a long descent, I get to Roncesvalles, I go into a brewery. I am completely exhausted. I sit at the bar, I hold a beer like it was a glass of water, then another, without speaking a word. To my left is a German who looks at me with a smile, he waits until I finish the second and then said in English:
-Tough day huh?
We talk, I told him my story. Learn he left Berlin and headed to Santiago, a march that will total 2500 km when it arrives!
Later I go to Mass, where five priests saying mass for 6. They wished us good luck and good luck! There are French, one Swiss, one English and two German.
I sleep in a monastery, which has a ceiling 50 feet high and no window. The keeper called Pablo, he speaks French, English and Dutch. I find it strange that he speaks Dutch and not English, I asked him
¨ Why Dutch? ¨
- Because my wife is Dutch! he replied!
- Ah, OK, it's a good reason ...